The Wharf Turns Washington into a Waterfront City

This story originally appeared in the Skift New Luxury Newsletter, for which I am the luxury correspondent.

cntraveler.com

Washington, D.C. is sporting a new tourism destination that is allowing travelers to get off the National Mall and a world away from politics. But The Wharf doesn’t only serve to transport visitors (including locals) to new reaches of the city. It also may become a role model for 21st century tourism developments. 

The Wharf, which opened last month, is turning Washington, D.C. as a waterfront city. Yes, a river runs through it, but in the past, most of D.C.’s waterfront areas were undeveloped and somewhat seedy. But a new $2.5 billion mixed-use development including hotels, entertainment venues, restaurants, retail, residential and office space is what many  in the city’s political, tourism and business communities are calling a game-changer.

Phase 1 opened on October 12. Together with Phase 2, to be finished by the end of 2021, The Wharf will comprise 24 acres of land, 50 acres of water, marinas, piers and waterfront parks, scores of restaurant and retail outlets, and at least four hotels (the InterContinental, Hyatt House and Canopy by Hilton are open as part of Phase 1).

The Wharf is being developed by Hoffman-Madison Waterfront, a partnership of PN Hoffman and Madison Marquette. PN Hoffman is one of Washington’s premier developers of urban residential and mixed-use neighborhood transformation projects, while Madison Marquette is a private investment and operating company focused on mixed-use developments throughout the U.S. The land on which the project stands is owned by the District of Columbia, but leased by Hoffman-Madison Waterfront under a 99-year lease.

The mile-long area along the Potomac River is transforming a previously-neglected D.C. neighborhood into a tourism hub. But just as importantly, it may serve as a model for other mixed-used developments going forward.

Photo courtesy MadisonMarquette.com 

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Shawn Seaman is the aptly-named project director who has been there since the beginning of the development. A principal and executive vice president at PN Hoffman, Seaman notes that in its request for proposal, the city emphasized that the redevelopment spur job creation, with 50 percent of all jobs set aside for DC residents, and provide affordable housing. Improving the quality of the environment was another key demand in the RFP, which was issued and awarded in 2006.

The approach of the master planners at Hoffman-Madison Waterfront was to understand how the water side of the equation was going to work before erecting buildings, according to Seaman. “We looked at certain world cities that do a good job of being connected to the water,” he says, noting that Nordic ports like Copenhagen, Denmark and the Aker Brygge district in Oslo, Norway were key inspirations. The planners also drew inspiration from Cape Town, South Africa, Vancouver’s Granville Island and Pike Place Market in Seattle.

Photo courtesy of washington.org

Given the generic and sterile nature of so many mixed-used developments, Monty Hoffman, founder and chief executive officer of PN Hoffman, aimed for something completely different. “We wanted a waterfront that is not a typical ‘lifestyle’ center. In fact, The Wharf is a bit messy,” he says. “Messiness” was achieved by having different architects designing the buildings (albeit under a master architectural plan). As a result, instead of a cookie-cutter look, The Wharf sports a mix of shapes, building materials and unique design. Then there’s woonerf, a Dutch concept of using the street as a shared social space for pedestrians, cyclists, dog-walkers and others. Seaman points out that having a mix of users descending upon the same space for different purposes creates a dynamic environment “resulting in a street theater that lacks when everything is perfectly polished.”

GETTING AROUND

While there are ample parking spaces, public transportation is a major component of the development. The facility is within easy walking access of the DC Metro, although there is also a free shuttle bus that goes to one of the nearby stations (and to the National Mall). There are bike rental facilities and 1,750 bike parking spaces. There are marinas which can house everything from houseboats to multi-million dollar yachts. There is a free water jitney that takes outdoor types from the Recreation Pier across to East Potomac Park, where they can play golf or tennis, go for a run, or ride a bike. 

But the highlight of The Wharf’s transportation system is a regional water taxi run by Entertainment Cruises that connects the Potomac waterfront from Old Town Alexandria to Georgetown (and, by next spring, National Harbor). The high-speed 150-passenger boats, inspired by European ferries, are GPS-tracked, so awaiting passengers can know exactly arrival times. The water taxis are designed not only to accommodate tourists, but also locals commuting downtown from the neighborhoods it serves (an annual pass costs $175).

KEEPING IT REAL

Everything in travel these days is about keeping it local and authentic. And The Wharf is both. The first port of entry is DC’s iconic Municipal Fish Market, which has continuously been in operation since 1805. The re-imagined market includes long-time tenants, along with a restoration of the historic oyster shed, a new distillery and a market hall inspired by San Francisco’s Ferry Building. The fish market is open now; the rest of the work will be done by next summer.

The bulk of restaurants and retail at The Wharf have local roots. Chefs who are already established in the community—like Top Chef contestants Mike Isabellaand Kwame Onwuachi – have opened eateries, and local entertainment impresario Seth Hurwitz runs The Anthem, a 6,000-seat concert venue designed by David Rockwell. Retail follows the same pattern, with nary a national chain store to be found. The highlight of the retail tenant list is Politics and Prose, a DC institution that opened its second bookstore here

According to Eleanor Holmes Norton, D.C.’s non-voting representative in Congress,  “We’ve added a new destination to the District of Columbia. We have transformed a neighborhood, giving tourists new areas to visit This is so important because we are a tourist economy.” Amer Hammour, chairman of Madison Marquette, says, “All around us the whole area is changing. There will be new museums nearby—the International Spy Museum (which is moving from another location) and the Museum of the Bible. Plus, a new soccer stadium is being built. The Wharf made it all possible.”

But it’s not just about tourism. The Wharf will provide 6000 permanent jobs and a million-dollar job workforce training program. Up to 30 percent of the apartment units will be set aside for affordable housing. And, according to Seaman, the city will garner an estimated $50 million in annual tax revenue. Most importantly he says, “We built a real neighborhood, which makes The Wharf a more interesting and authentic place to be because real people live and work there.”

Canines, Comedy, Culture and Kansas..

...are among the topics I've covered for Orbitz Blog this month. Here are links for your reading pleasure.

Pooch hounding you for a vacation? Here: 7 Pet-Friendly Hotels Every Dog Should Visit

Funny bone need a tickle? Just for laughs, here's a peek at some of the world's top comedy festivals.

Traveling to DC? If so, here's intel on the city's most buzz-worthy neighborhoods and here's a look at places in Washington where women rule.

NationalWomensParty.org

Finally, if you are looking for the Old West, consider starting in Kansas.

kansastravel.org

Washington, DC: The Outsider's Perspective

As a long-time resident of Washington, DC, I am always fascinated by how outsiders perceive the city. I'm talking about the city proper, not the political intrigue that is going on within its borders. I think we can all concur that what happens on Capitol Hill is not a pretty sight. 

This week, I was privileged to be a guest speaker for American University's Washington Semester journalism students. The 30-something 20-something-and-unders to whom I spoke were from Norway, Germany, Austria, France, Japan, and Lebanon. There were also a handful of Americans from California and Pennsylvania, most of whom had never before landed in the nation's capital.

Before I started my talk, I asked about their preconceptions of Washington, and if those perceptions matched the reality.

www.whitehouse.gov

It  was heartening to hear that most of the foreigners found Washington a very friendly city. They liked the people, finding them open and welcoming. They felt comfortable here due to the diminutive size of the buildings ("The White House is so tiny," said the young lady from Austria, while the French student remarked on the fashionably small scale of Georgetown). Obviously, from the pictures on TV, they were expecting super-sized buildings and super-sized egos, but, by avoiding the U.S. Capitol, they discovered super-sizing in DC to be a phenomenon mainly experienced at fast-food eateries.

On the other hand, the American students didn't find Washington particularly friendly. However, they did express surprise at how clean the city is. I had heard this comment before from friends visiting from New York and other slightly grimy U.S. cities (not that there's anything wrong with that). I was intrigued to know if Washington's cleanliness struck the foreigners as well. It did not. They expected our nation's capital to be a gleaming, shining beacon, and, in aesthetics at least, it lived up to its hype.

     Please follow me on Twitter @dailysuitcase

Me and USA Today, Together Again

USA Today's Great American Outdoors summer travel series features me as Ms. DC. This week, USA Today offers suggestions for great hikes around the U.S. of A. Note that I am limited to the confines of Washington, as Ms. Maryland and Ms. Virginia lay claim to their respective states.

Here's the unedited version of my capital suggestion:

Looking to cool off with a summer hike? Tree-canopied Rock Creek Park provides a (relatively) temperate setting for a rugged DC constitutional. The country's largest urban park (at more than 1,700 acres) has two main trails for serious hikers which incorporate hills, dales, babbling brooks, and waterfalls. Meantime, casual hikers or bikers or inline skaters should wander over on weekends, when Beach Drive, the main thoroughfare through the park, is closed to motorized traffic.

Laura Powell reports on travel for several DC television stations and blogs at www.dailysuitcase.com.

Ms. District of Columbia/USA Today

For its new summer travel series, USA Today has reached out to the nation's top travel experts to outline the best drives, hikes, and wildlife areas in their own backyards. I've been named Ms. Washington, DC. Here's my entry for best drive, which appeared in the June 3 USA Today Weekend section.

District of Columbia
The best drive in the nation's capital is only about five miles. Wait until sundown and start at the base of Memorial Bridge. Drive past the Lincoln Memorial and then veer right and north to glimpse the Thomas Jefferson Memorial over the shimmering waters of the Tidal Basin. As you drive up Independence Avenue and over to Jefferson Drive, the Capitol will rise before you. Next, circle back on Madison Drive, which takes you past the National Mall museums. Look ahead for a view of the Washington Monument. Swing over to Constitution for a glimpse of the White House and finish back at the Lincoln Memorial. washington.org

Recommended by DC-based travel and TV journalist Laura Powell, who blogs at dailysuitcase.com.

See the USA in USA Today/DC

USA Today has asked me to be the DC contributor to its upcoming "Best Drives in the USA" series. Restricted to the confines of the nation's capital, my selection of scenic drives was fairly limited. Here's what I have come up with. If you have other ideas, please let me know.

The best drive in the nation's capital is relatively short, only about five miles, and can be done by car or by bike. Either way, you'll need headlights, as this is a nighttime jaunt.

Seeing Washington's shining icons lit up against a dark sky is a reminder of the Founding Fathers' visions for this country. Wait until sundown and then wander over to the base of Memorial Bridge, just behind the Lincoln Memorial. Drive past Abe and then veer right and north. On your right, you'll get a glimpse of the Thomas Jefferson Memorial looming over the shimmering waters of the Tidal Basin. As you drive up Independence and jog over to Jefferson Drive, the Capitol will rise before you. Once you approach the Capitol, drive behind and around or right in front via 3rd Street. Next, circle back on Madison Drive, which takes you past the National Gallery of Art and the Smithsonian Museums of Natural History and American History. As you pass the museums, make sure to look ahead, as you'll get a full frontal view of the Washington Monument. Then swing over to Constitution to get a profile of the imposing obelisk and a glimpse (on your right) of the White House. Finish up by driving back to the Lincoln Memorial. Emancipate yourself of your vehicle and pay your respects to Abe. Then, sit on his steps and survey the entire Mall from his illustrious vantage point.

Image courtesy of Destination DC

Pssst, Your Routes are Showing

Many Washingtonians are currently yearning to get out of Dodge, due to either the political or the natural climate. If you are one of the throngs, check out these new nonstop routes between DC and anywhere-but-here.

Gobble It Up

As a special Thanksgiving treat, Turkey is now on the menu for Washington, DC pilgrims who prefer their travel nonstop. Turkish Airlines is providing service from Washington Dulles to Istanbul four times a week starting on Saturday, November 6. The introductory one-way fare of $751 will be gobbled up fast, so book now.

Sunny Days

With Washington expected to be at loggerheads this winter, there's no better time to take off to the Caribbean. Between December 18 and April 30, Cayman Airways is bringing back twice-a-week nonstop service between Dulles and sunny Grand Cayman. Aside from the Caribbean beaches, you can visit one of the world's biggest turtle farms. No loggerheads there, just green sea chelonians. Book now and you'll only have to shell out $238 for a roundtrip ticket.

Ice, Ice, Baby

Want to go somewhere where the economy is worse than ours? Then Iceland may be your cup of tea. Icelandair begins its summer service from Dulles in May, 2011. Due to the low value of the Icelandic Krona, the country is a one hail of a deal...definitely one of the best bargains in Europe. Roundtrips to Reykjavik start as low as $429. Mind you, that's just the tip of the iceberg, as you have to add taxes and fees. But still, the trip can cost less than $700....a small chunk of change for high season travel.

Obamaboom

The election of Barack Obama is causing a tourism boomlet in such diverse places as Indonesia, Kenya, Japan (home of a town called Obama), and the United States. In conjunction with Obama's inauguration on January 20, 2009, the Illinois Bureau of Tourism is launching a three-day presidential tour route. Details are still being finalized, but it's guaranteed the tour will take in Chicago's Hyde Park, home of the new "Western White House."

Meanwhile, in Washington, DC, despite sky-high prices, hotels are almost completely sold out for the Inauguration festivities. Among the few things still available are the most undemocratic high-end packages being offered by the city's five-star hotels. But those will be going soon.

For Obamaniacs still looking for a place to stay in the DC area, there's always CraigsList. But even there, "hosts" are driving hard bargains. One owner of a one-bedroom condo in the suburbs (albeit near a Metro station) wants $1500 a night. Don't do it, readers. Meantime, the owner of a two-bedroom house in a toney DC neighborhood wants to trade a three-night stay at his house during Inauguration Week for a two-week stay at a European villa this summer. Meanwhile, a ranch owner in Wyoming is asking for a four-day Inauguration stay in DC in return for a two-week summer vacation for a family on his spread.

I'll keep you posted on what's being offered on CraigsList, and will offer other insider tips on visiting DC during the Inaugural. Stay tuned.