Featured Post

Sunday, June 8, 2008

The Exchange Game

To follow up on a previous post regarding exchanging money overseas...

I just received my latest bank and credit card statements from my monthlong trip to Europe. My credit card company charged a three percent "exchange transaction" fee on every charge. Meantime, Bank of America charged $5.00 for every ATM withdrawal. The banks whose ATMs I used in Scandinavia and Hungary charged about $1 per withdrawal, while the Albanian bank charged nothing.

So, depending on the amount I withdrew from the ATM, my overall transaction fee ranged from three to eight percent. However, given BOA's new policy, starting June 1, that an additional three percent fee (based on the dollar amount withdrawn) will be charged makes ATM withdrawals exponentially more expensive. My advice: Stick to credit card transactions whenever possible, and look for both credit card companies and banks that offer low international transaction fees.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Europe on a Budget?

Europe is expensive. No doubt about it. I recently returned from a monthlong stay on the Continent and have some thoughts about how you can actually make your puny dollar stretch a bit further.

First off, ponder the place you will visit. I went to four countries. Alphabetically, they were Albania, Denmark, Hungary and Sweden. Expense-wise, from cheapest to most expensive, the order changes to Albania, Hungary, Sweden, Denmark.

Yep, if you want to do Europe cheap, visit Albania. No, it's not inexpensive to get to, but once you're there, accommodations (such as they are) and food, are cheap. Of course, it's not easy to get around the country, and getting to the places that are of major interest (Butrint, Saranda, Gjirokastra) is nearly impossible. But accommodations and food are cheap. For a country that's a bit more accessible, albeit a bit more expensive, there's Hungary. A stay at the charming Hotel Gerlozcy in the heart of the city, just footsteps from Vorosmarty Square, runs about $125 a night. The Mercure Metropol, located on one of the city's main boulevards, is only $108 per night, with a full breakfast included. With a Budapest Card ($41 for two days; $50 for three days), most major sights and public transportation are free. And food can be had for reasonable prices.

Not so in Scandinavia. Everything is out of sight in Denmark and Sweden. A few years ago, one dollar bought 13 Swedish kroner. Now, it buys six. In Denmark, the exchange is five Danish kroner to the dollar. What does five kroner buy you? Maybe a stale Danish at the low-cost Netto grocery store.

But don't give up on the Continent. Aside from lower-cost destinations like Albania, Hungary, Romania or Bulgaria, there are other ways to save, no matter what country you are visiting.

1. Friend-hop. If you have friends living in Europe, now is the time to visit them. Don't have friends on the Continent? Get some. There are several homestay organizations that arrange for overnight visits (of course, you have to be willing to reciprocate). Two of the biggies are The Hospitality Club (www.hospitalityclub.org) and SERVAS (www.servas.org).

2. Find lodging that includes breakfast. Eat a lot. Then, have lunch later in the afternoon and make it your main meal of the day. Restaurants often charge much less for lunch than for dinner.

3. Stay at a place that has a kitchen, or, at the very least, an in-room fridge. Then, go grocery shopping. Stock up on snacks and items like bread, cheese, and yogurt that can serve as mini-meals.

4. Buy a multi-day or multi-ride pass for public transportation. In Denmark, a single ride on the Metro cost $5.00. Buying a card for 10 passes brought the per ride cost down to $2.50. Almost every city that has a subway system offers special passes.

5. Similarly, if you plan to do a lot of sightseeing, check to see if the local tourism bureau offers a special pass. In Denmark, the Copenhagen Card provides free entrance to scores of attractions, plus free rides on all public transportation, and restaurant discounts. It's $42 for one day and $88 for three days. In Sweden, the Stockholm Card offers free entry to 75 attractions, free travel by public transport, free sightseeing by boat, and other goodies. A one-day pass costs approximately $55. Two days cost $77 and three $97. Both cards offer discounted rates for children.

6. Looking for the best exchange rate? Use plastic. Your credit card will give you the most for your money. I used to recommend use of the ATM as the best way to get cash. Certainly, the commission rates changed at Bureaux de Change are a rip-off. And changing money at banks can be inconvenient and laborious. But I've got to tell you, while convenient, the money-saving appeal of the ATM is diminishing. Banks just keep adding on fees on ATM transactions. There's the fee you are charged by your bank to use an out-of-network ATM. That can be $5 a pop. There's the fee charged by the local bank. That's wrapped up in the exchange rate, so you never quite know what that is. Just this month, Bank of America has decided to charge an extra three percent of all foreign transactions. So, in addition to the ATM usage fee, you will pay another $3 for a $100 withdrawal; $15 for a $500 withdrawal. Nice, huh?

7. Check into Europe's low-cost carriers. There are some good ones. Of course, Ryanair nickel and dimes you for everything from beverages to bag, but the base fee is worth it. Scandinavia's Sterling is a real gem. If you book far enough out, it's really cheap. A one-way trip from Copenhagen to Stockholm booked 30 days out costs $52. And that includes the extra two percent charge Danish companies and websites charge for using non-Denmark issued credit cards. I'll admit, the first time I booked on Sterling, I was confused by the extra charge to book a seat. After all, one would expect that when you buy a ticket, you buy a seat. My confusion was cleared up the second time I booked on Sterling. You can buy a seat with extra legroom or you can buy a regular seat or, for free, you can leave seat selection to chance. I did the latter on the return flight from Stockholm to Copenhagen and was quite happy with my free window seat near the front of the plane.

8. Wait. What goes up must come down. And at some point, the dollar will regain its strength. In the meantime, if you are hankering to go elsewhere overseas for cheap, consider destinations in South America and Asia

Sunday, April 6, 2008

Model Behavior

Were it not for the fact that a certain lovely, leggy supermodel is known for her regular outbursts at underlings and others, some might be sympathetic to the recent case of one Ms. Naomi Campbell. The tempestuous beauty, you see, was arrested last week when her luggage, checked in for a flight out of the now equally-infamous Heathrow Terminal 5, went AWOL. Apparently, she threw a fit with airline staff upon learning one of her fashion-filled bags failed to make it onto an L.A.-bound plane. Who among us wouldn't have loved to throw a similar fit? Anyway, the long and short of it--police officers had to board the plane to quell the disturbance. At that point, Ms. Campbell allegedly spit on the officers and had a nasty word or two to share. Okay, most among us wouldn't do that. Soon thereafter, she was led away sporting that popular fashion accessory--a set of silvery handcuffs.

Given that thousands of passengers have now experienced the same fate (missed baggage, not the ability to strut down the catwalk to the tune of millions of dollars), one might say Ms. Campbell's rant gave a public face to the feelings of many. However, given Ms. Campbell's ego and her police record (she recently spent five days mopping floors in New York as part of a community service sentence after throwing a cell phone at her housekeeper during an argument over a pair of jeans), it is more likely that she thought she could get away with such behavior....unlike the thousands of other peons who would liked to have yelled or thrown a cell phone at someone...but somehow managed, in a very British way....to restrain themselves.

Speaking of models behaving badly, let's talk Kate Moss for a minute. No, she hasn't caused any ruckuses that I know of, nor has she snorted any cocaine lately....well, at least not on tape. Not that the latter has turned out to be a bad career move. Even though a couple of advertisers dropped her after said tape became public, she appears to be doing better than ever. Ms. Moss is featured on at least 20 of the first 50 pages of every fashion magazine I pick up these days. And men, just so you know, the first 50 pages are usually devoted to ads. The table of contents doesn't even show up in a September issue of Vogue, for example, until page 100 or so. What, are there no other models available to peddle fashion wares? Granted, Naomi Campbell might be in jail when an advertiser is planning a shoot, but surely, there are other choices. How about some of the castoffs from America's Next Top Model? Good thing supermodels are not role models. Oops, except that they are to many young girls--witness anorexia and the behavior of the girls on ANTM. Anyway, my point is, what is it about Kate Moss that advertisers and photographers find so appealing? Perhaps it is the fact that, since she is so frail, she doesn't have the strength to cause any harm should she decide to hurl a cell phone their way.

Sunday, March 30, 2008

Headaches at Heathrow

The much touted Terminal 5 at London's Heathrow Airport is off to a shaky start. During its first four days of operation, British Airways (the sole tenant of the new facility) has cancelled 245 flights. More cancellations would have been necessary had BA not continued to operate most of its long haul flights from an older terminal.

Part of the appeal of the new terminal was its state of the art baggage handling system. But during the last few days, more than 15,000 bags have gone AWOL. BA has had to call in volunteers to help reunite bags with owners.

In addition to luggage problems, there have been complaints among passengers about the check-in process, confusing road signs, problems when paying at the parking garage, and a broken down escalator. BA admits to problems in the staff security screening process and in getting its staff familiar with the new facility.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Trouble in Tibet

As violent protests against Chinese rule continue, tourists are being urged to avoid Tibet. With many companies now postponing tours through the end of April, the question is, how long will this last? High season in Tibet starts in May. Given tourism's economic impact on the country--$390 million flowed in during 2006--the continued protests may have significant short-term economic effects. The longer-term question may be how the escalating protests will impact tourism to the Beijing Olympics in August. The violence in Tibet erupted just two weeks before Olympic celebrations kick off with the start of the torch relay.

On the government front, the granting of travel permits required for visitors to Tibet has been temporarily discontinued by China. The U.S. State Department has issued a travel alert, advising Americans to defer travel to Tibet at this time. For those already in the country, the alert advises the avoidance of "areas where demonstrations are taking place. U.S. citizens in Lhasa should seek safe havens in hotels and other buildings and remain indoors to the extent possible." It is interesting that the State Department has not gone the more definitive route of issuing a travel warning, which the Canadian government has done. Those who say that State's travel alert/travel warning system can be rather political in nature may have more fodder here.

Even before the travel alert came out, many U.S.-based tour operators started canceling upcoming trips to the region. High-end tour operator Travcoa canceled its Tibet-focused trip departing on April 21. Pacific Delight Tours has notified customers going to Tibet this month that trips are being postponed. SITA World Tours says its Beijing office has advised against sending tours into Tibet until the end of April.

This brings up a very important matter to travelers. If a tour operator cancels a trip, the consumer may not necessarily get his or her money back. Refunds may depend on the specific situation or the specific tour operator. I was surprised to learn that some high-end operators do not refund money for trips they cancel due to political events. Instead, some companies will only apply monies paid to other trips. Travcoa, however, has a policy that is more generous. According to Louise Shumbris, vice president of product development, "we try to be as liberal as we can regarding our refund policy." In the case of the April Tibet cancellation, Travcoa has offered full refunds to consumers. It did the same after canceling trips to Kenya last month.



--The number of visitors to Tibet reached four million in 2007, compared with about 2.5 million the previous year. Most of the visitors are Chinese. In recent years, fewer than 200,000 foreigners have visited annually.

Saturday, February 23, 2008

There's Something About Liechtenstein

Liechtenstein is a country that is rarely in the news. And the principality likes it that way. But now, this secretive Alpine bastion is in the center of a controversy involving rich Germans, hidden bank accounts and tax evasion. Furthermore, the United States may be jumping on the bandwagon. Senator Carl Levin has announced he is opening a Congressional investigation into whether American citizens are hiding assets in Liechtenstein's banks in order to evade taxes.

It's nasty business for this idyllic Lilliputian Eden wedged between Switzerland and Austria. Yet, the recent scandal surrounding the country's banking practices is no surprise to me. Not that I have any inside information, mind you. Nor do I have a bank account there (after all, I'm a journalist, not a supermodel). But each succeeding time I have visited the country (I've been there, done that three times), I have had growing suspicions that all is not as it seems.

My first visit to Liechtenstein was back in the day when I was doing my student Eurail tour of Europe. Frankly, I merely stopped in Liechtenstein for a day in order to add another stamp to my passport. Despite the rather hokey touristic nature of the capital city of Vaduz, I was somehow charmed by the tiny principality (smaller in area than the District of Columbia). Therefore, I licked my lips when, during my year as a graduate student in England, I once again found myself in this postage-stamp-sized country.

That visit included some one-on-one time with the locals, who invited me to go skiing and to eat out. They did not, however, invite me into their homes. There was definitely a wall between recreation and reality. The graffiti on said wall said, "Outsider, keep out." Nevertheless, what struck me during that visit was that everyone did seem quite rich and happy. While other parts of Europe were in turmoil at the time, Liechtenstein was a parapet of the good life.

But during a five-day stay in Liechtenstein three years ago, things struck me a bit differently. Perhaps the change of viewpoint developed from age and wisdom, or perhaps cynicism. First off, I stayed at a four-star business-oriented hotel in downtown Vaduz. At breakfast, I noticed a motley group of polyglots. These businesspeople were from all over the map. Their languages were all over the map. When various people broke into English every now and then (seemingly the common second language of the gang), it was heavily-accented. I later learned that some of the people were German, others Russian, and others from various points in Eastern Europe. While such international groupings are not uncommon in European business hotels, the fact is, this group didn't look cohesive. People dressed differently (even accounting for the differences in nationalities), they comported themselves differently, and if you didn't see them all sitting together at meals, you wouldn't know they were together. Naturally, my mind starting novelizing the situation. Was this a cartel of European mafia members? Was it a coterie of ne'er-do'wells? Or was it merely a bevy of badly-dressed (for the most part), suspicious-looking people who were having some kind of annual reunion in Vaduz?

Another day, as I was driving around the countryside of Liechtenstein (yes, there is more to Liechtenstein than Vaduz...in fact, there are 10 other towns and plenty of open space), my guide mentioned that the country has an open lottery for citizenship. I thought that this merited further investigation. After all, who wouldn't want to live in a fairytale land, where a courtly prince reigned and where everything was clean and everyone was rich? Granted, my lack of German-speaking ability and a real reason for needing to live there would be strikes against me. Still, going through the application process would be an entertaining exercise. However, my dreams of a Liechtensteinian lifestyle were quickly quashed. When I asked the country's press representative about the application process, an agitated look appeared on her face and her words, dismissing the topic as bunkum, were expressed with consternation. From her mien and tone, I got the feeling that this citizenship lottery was a big bean that had accidentally been spilled to me. Perhaps her response might have been different were I am German multi-millionaire.

Most countries want overnight visitors for the hotel and restaurant revenues they leave behind. But during my three times in Liechtenstein, I noticed that Liechtenstein seems to want touristic riff-raff to come in, get passports stamped (for a fee), buy some stamps, and then leave...quickly. In light of the recent relevations regarding Liechtenstein's seamier side, and the profits it may be making from fishy banking practices, there's really no need to reel in loads of tourists.

Interesting Facts about Liechtenstein

-Liechtenstein is one of two doubly-landlocked countries (the other is Uzbekistan) in the world
-Liechtenstein is the sixth smallest country in the world
-Liechtenstein has more registered companies (approximately 74,000) than citizens (approximately 35,000)
-Only about 60% of Liechtenstein's population has citizenship
-Financial services account for 30 percent of the country's GDP
-The manufacturing of false teeth takes a big bite out of the country's economic pie chart

Monday, February 18, 2008

WEIRD, WACKY, WONDERFUL AMERICA

Dear Reader: Let's celebrate Presidents Day with some weird, wacky Americana.

Amusing Museums

The Louvre has Da Vinci's Mona Lisa. The Rijksmuseum has Rembrandt's The Nightwatch. The Museum of Bad Art (MOBA) has Lucy in the Field with Flowers, painted by Unknown (or someone who prefers to remain so). MOBA is the world's only museum dedicated to the collection (often out of trash bins), preservation, exhibition and celebration of bad art in all its forms. The museum is located in the basement of the Dedham, Massachusetts community theater building. The collection is lit by one large, humming fluorescent light fixture, so visitors can use flash. Admission is free, and, as they say, it's worth every penny.


If that doesn’t leave you flush with excitement, how about a visit to a gallery devoted to sinks, tubs and other plumbing items? The Kohler Design Center in Kohler, Wisconsin is truly the couture house of plumbing. Why, Kohler even contributed toilets to New York's Fashion Week this year. The Kohler Design Center is a three-level showcase of innovative product design and technology. A large gallery traces the 130-year history of Kohler Company products. It’s good stuff. The proof is in the plumbing.


Don't leave Wisconsin without visiting the Mount Horeb Mustard Museum. This museum features more than 4300 containers of the tangy condiment. Every so often, the museum hosts a Mustard Family Reunion, when those so named can "ketchup" with each other. This year, however, Colonel Mustard and kin will have to settle for getting together during National Mustard Day, celebrated this year the first Saturday of August.


Ketchup and mayonnaise seem to have been squeezed out of the museum business, but vinegar stakes its claim to fame in Roslyn, South Dakota. At the International Vinegar Museum, you can see vinegar from around the world and learn how the stuff is made. There's also an International Vinegar Festival held here in June.

Ice Cream, You Scream

Le Mars, Iowa may claim to be the world capital of ice cream, but those in St. Louis might have a cone to pick with that idea. After all, the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair gave birth to the ice cream cone. Now, 101 years later, visitors to the Gateway City can still grab a cone in Forest Park, the location of the World's Fair. Currently, the park is home to the St. Louis Zoo, the concession stands of which all feature giant-sized drumstick cones reminiscent of days gone by.


But the place for a frosty treat in St. Louis these days is Ted Drewes Frozen Custard. This Route 66 icon is noted for its "concrete" ice cream shakes—so thick you can turn them upside down and the liquid stays in the cup. Also on the St. Louis ice cream must-eat list is Crown Candy Kitchen, an old-fashioned soda fountain serving handmade ice cream and massive "World's Fair Sundaes."


For ice cream with a bit of 1960s flavor, head off to Waterbury, Vermont, home of the Ben & Jerry’s ice cream plant. After taking in the New England scenery, visitors can take a guided 30-minute tour where they can learn all about how ice cream (and frozen yogurt) is made. The last stop on the tour is the "FlavoRoom," where there are free samples from the day’s batches.

And More Sweet Treats

Travelers to Eli's Cheesecake World in Chicago can visit a 62,000 square foot cheesecake factory and then enjoy a slice in the café overlooking the Research & Development section of the bakery. More than 30 types of cheesecake (made with 3 million pounds of cream cheese annually) are cooked up here. Eli’s Cheesecake World offers tours during the week for those who call ahead and say cheese.


Another popular All-American dessert item is Jell-O. The Jell-O Gallery in LeRoy, New York tells the tale of America’s love affair with the gelatinous concoction. The museum allows visitors to take an interactive walk through more than 100 years of Jell-O, starting in 1897. Visitors learn how the history of Jell-O parallels the history of America. There are wartime recipe booklets (during World War I, Jell-O was touted as a low-cost dessert alternative) and photos from Ellis Island, where the wobbly stuff literally became the first taste of America for many immigrants.


The Capital of Giant Things

...has to be Minnesota. The Land of 10,000 Lakes is also the land of dozens of giant statues. There's the Jolly Green Giant in Blue Earth, Smokey the Bear in International Falls, the Happy Chef in Mankato, Paul Bunyan, who shows up in both Akeley and Bedmidji, and the State Fair Gopher in St. Paul. And that's just for starters.

If you are looking for a colossal Bob’s Big Boy, he still shows up in several places around the country. Next time you’re in Hollywood, stop by the Toluca Lake/Burbank Bob’s Big Boy, where the larger than life icon reigns supreme. And speaking of classic restaurant icons, if you are in the Chicago area, stop by Des Plaines. That’s where you can find an original Golden Arch, featuring Speedee, outside of a re-creation of America’s first McDonald’s. The sign, built in 1955, in its neon elegance, promotes the 15 cent hamburger.